Neilikka
09-06-2008, 05:24 AM
A lthough half abandoned and ravaged, Abkhazia remains one of the most impressive places along the Black Sea coast. Just a couple dozen kilometers from Sochi. The first thing that seems to strike every tourist crossing the Russian border on the Psou River are the spacious and abandoned valleys, as well as the complete absence of rush. This relaxing feeling accompanies you all the way from Sochi and switches you into a more contemplative frame of mind. No wonder Abkhazia has always been considered a tourist mecca, and a place of rest for both Russian Emperors and Soviet bigwigs. Nature and history, as well as the recent political ado, makes it feel like afaraway fairytale land. The military conflict of the beginning of the 1990s only contributes to the mystery, adding to the attractive and wildly romantic charm of the place. During the 1990s, the population of the region dropped dramatically, resulting in many abandoned districts and dilapidated buildings, which produce a very strong impression.
Everybody travelling to Abkhazia from Russia first arrives in the small town of Gagra, which is about 15 kilometers away from the border. A former Greek and Roman colony, Gagra later enjoyed prosperity as one of the major trading settlements on the Black Sea coast, with direct connections to markets in Genoa and Venice.
The name Gagra itself is first mentioned on a map of 1308, which is stored now in the Library of Saint Mark in Venice. In 1919, Gagra's history took a dramatic turn when Vladimir Lenin personally ordered the place be turned into a Soviet workers' resort.
Driving along the main street you cannot fail to see the town's iconic colonnade and a splendid park with magnificent palace (that now houses a hotel and restaurant) built at the beginning of the 20th century by Prince Peter of Oldenburg, a member of Russian royal family. The hotel building is said to have been brought piece by piece from Norway. The scenery surrounding the palace itself is a jewel in the crown of the "Black Sea Riviera" with palm trees and squirrels scampering about the grounds.
As the majority of Abkhazia's population is concentrated along the shore, and there is basically one highway that goes through the entire region, just continue driving in the same direction and you will reach another luxurious Soviet resort known as Pitsunda. This also used to be a Greek and Roman colony and later, thanks to its convenient cape and harbor, was used by Genoan merchants as a port.
The town boasts a 10th century cathedral in surprisingly good condition and is famous among Russians. The pine groves in the area belong to a nature reserve with some trees up to 200 years old (the average age is 80 years old). The name of the town itself is derived from "pityus," which means pine tree in Greek.
In the heartland, 80 kilometers away from the border is New Athos. In 1874, a group of Russian monks from the overcrowded Rossikon monastery on Mount Athos in Greece arrived in the Caucasus to found a new home. It eventually grew into one of the most venerated Orthodox pilgrimage places. It is a splendid place, and at the same time secluded, far from the large cities between high mountains and the seaside.
Another natural landmark of New Athos is its cave. It is one of the largest caves in the world, discovered only in 1961 and became a tourist attraction in 1975. The huge and splendid underground palaces feature nine major cavities in the Iverian Mountain have even their own railway to cover long underground distances.
Another half an hour drive and you are in Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia. Another former Greek and Roman colony and Genoese port, Sukhumi still shows traces of old civilizations like the remains of Roman walls and medieval forts.
Sukhumi was the center of the Georgian-Abkhaz armed conflict at the beginning of the 1990s which destroyed much of the city. Today's Sukhumi provides a very strange impression of imperial beauty and grandeur hand in hand with the aftermath of the war. Luxurious houses stand next to bullet-riddled and bombed-out administration buildings and ruined large apartment blocks.
Another good place to visit in Abkhazia is the mountainous Lake Ritsa. The way to the lake itself is breathtaking, with deep valleys and twisted roads. One of the most dangerous bends is called "Goodbye, Motherland," because of a legend from the 1930s that a military truck fell and the driver was said to cry out this last phrase.
Lake Ritsa is situated 1.5 km above sea level and filled with six mountainous rivers making it extremely clear and permanently chilled. Lined with mountain peaks, Ritsa provides a very picturesque image of the Caucasus. No wonder Joseph Stalin chose this place for one of his numerous dachas. Stalin's dacha is still preserved in good condition and functions as a museum. A perfect place to sit, admire the scenery and muse which, however, can be done well anywhere in Abkhazia.
Travel tips
Abkhazia is relatively small, and almost everything is easily accessible by car. As a border crossing is necessary, any traveler must have a passport with a Russian visa to come back (Russian citizens only show their passports) and pay small duties. The border on the Psou River is situated only a few kilometers from Adler Airport (the airport of Sochi). It is strongly recommended to travel to Abkhazia with a guide and a car. Guides can be easily found via any travel agency in Sochi or Adler, or with the help of any taxi driver. Shuttle buses from the airport to the border and beyond to any place of Abkhazia are frequent and readily available. Good meals are usually served in local cafés or apatskha as called by the locals. Traditional Caucasian food and wines are strongly recommended. The Russian ruble is used as the currency everywhere in Abkhazia. Despite all the fuss, the place is generally secure and popular with Russian tourists. Prices for lodging and meals are generally modest.
Everybody travelling to Abkhazia from Russia first arrives in the small town of Gagra, which is about 15 kilometers away from the border. A former Greek and Roman colony, Gagra later enjoyed prosperity as one of the major trading settlements on the Black Sea coast, with direct connections to markets in Genoa and Venice.
The name Gagra itself is first mentioned on a map of 1308, which is stored now in the Library of Saint Mark in Venice. In 1919, Gagra's history took a dramatic turn when Vladimir Lenin personally ordered the place be turned into a Soviet workers' resort.
Driving along the main street you cannot fail to see the town's iconic colonnade and a splendid park with magnificent palace (that now houses a hotel and restaurant) built at the beginning of the 20th century by Prince Peter of Oldenburg, a member of Russian royal family. The hotel building is said to have been brought piece by piece from Norway. The scenery surrounding the palace itself is a jewel in the crown of the "Black Sea Riviera" with palm trees and squirrels scampering about the grounds.
As the majority of Abkhazia's population is concentrated along the shore, and there is basically one highway that goes through the entire region, just continue driving in the same direction and you will reach another luxurious Soviet resort known as Pitsunda. This also used to be a Greek and Roman colony and later, thanks to its convenient cape and harbor, was used by Genoan merchants as a port.
The town boasts a 10th century cathedral in surprisingly good condition and is famous among Russians. The pine groves in the area belong to a nature reserve with some trees up to 200 years old (the average age is 80 years old). The name of the town itself is derived from "pityus," which means pine tree in Greek.
In the heartland, 80 kilometers away from the border is New Athos. In 1874, a group of Russian monks from the overcrowded Rossikon monastery on Mount Athos in Greece arrived in the Caucasus to found a new home. It eventually grew into one of the most venerated Orthodox pilgrimage places. It is a splendid place, and at the same time secluded, far from the large cities between high mountains and the seaside.
Another natural landmark of New Athos is its cave. It is one of the largest caves in the world, discovered only in 1961 and became a tourist attraction in 1975. The huge and splendid underground palaces feature nine major cavities in the Iverian Mountain have even their own railway to cover long underground distances.
Another half an hour drive and you are in Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia. Another former Greek and Roman colony and Genoese port, Sukhumi still shows traces of old civilizations like the remains of Roman walls and medieval forts.
Sukhumi was the center of the Georgian-Abkhaz armed conflict at the beginning of the 1990s which destroyed much of the city. Today's Sukhumi provides a very strange impression of imperial beauty and grandeur hand in hand with the aftermath of the war. Luxurious houses stand next to bullet-riddled and bombed-out administration buildings and ruined large apartment blocks.
Another good place to visit in Abkhazia is the mountainous Lake Ritsa. The way to the lake itself is breathtaking, with deep valleys and twisted roads. One of the most dangerous bends is called "Goodbye, Motherland," because of a legend from the 1930s that a military truck fell and the driver was said to cry out this last phrase.
Lake Ritsa is situated 1.5 km above sea level and filled with six mountainous rivers making it extremely clear and permanently chilled. Lined with mountain peaks, Ritsa provides a very picturesque image of the Caucasus. No wonder Joseph Stalin chose this place for one of his numerous dachas. Stalin's dacha is still preserved in good condition and functions as a museum. A perfect place to sit, admire the scenery and muse which, however, can be done well anywhere in Abkhazia.
Travel tips
Abkhazia is relatively small, and almost everything is easily accessible by car. As a border crossing is necessary, any traveler must have a passport with a Russian visa to come back (Russian citizens only show their passports) and pay small duties. The border on the Psou River is situated only a few kilometers from Adler Airport (the airport of Sochi). It is strongly recommended to travel to Abkhazia with a guide and a car. Guides can be easily found via any travel agency in Sochi or Adler, or with the help of any taxi driver. Shuttle buses from the airport to the border and beyond to any place of Abkhazia are frequent and readily available. Good meals are usually served in local cafés or apatskha as called by the locals. Traditional Caucasian food and wines are strongly recommended. The Russian ruble is used as the currency everywhere in Abkhazia. Despite all the fuss, the place is generally secure and popular with Russian tourists. Prices for lodging and meals are generally modest.